Glove construction

ABSTRACT

A construction and pattern for fingered gloves, particularly dress gloves, especially designed for use with knit and stretch fabrics. The trank includes back and palm portions folded at the little finger edge of the hand for wrap around comfort. The back portion of the trank includes the back portions of the little, ring and middle finger stalls and the back and palm portions of the forefinger stall to provide a wrap-around effect at the forefinger edge fold. The thumb stall is part of the back portion of the trank when knit or stretch material is used, in which case special seams and stitching are utilized to impart a fashionable set-in appearance, or the thumb stall is cut separately for nonknit materials. A sidefinger fourchette is installed by continuous seams from the forefinger tip to the little finger tip and is cut to taper toward the tips of each finger stall before final stitching.

United States Patent 1191 9 Jorgensen GLOVE consruucrron [76] Inventor:lone Towner Jorgensen, Rt. 3 Box 520, Bend, Oreg. 97701 [22] Filed: Nov.8, 1971 [2]] Appl. No.: 196,552

[52] US. Cl. 2/169 [51] Int. Cl A41d 19/02 [58] Field of Search 2/169,159, 163, 167, 165, 2/166; 33/12 [56] References Cited UNITED STATESPATENTS 276,310 4/1883 Ulwick 2/169 302,085 7/1884 Bartel 2/1691,215,688 2/1917 Moller 2/167 1,427,419 8/1922 Ruddell 33/12 1,909,8635/1933 Johanson. 2/169 2,119,177 5/1938 Pearce 2/169 2,248,200 7/1941Rawles 2/169 2,316,575 4/1943 Evangelista 2/169 2,339,251 l/l944Davidsohn 2/169 2,443,375 6/1948 Burkholz 2/169 2,464,378 3/1949 Coupaset a1... 2/169 2,544,515 3/1951 Tatar 2/169 2,552,258 5/1951 Collins l2/169 2,596,349 5/1952 Thurlow et a1. 2/169 Y [111 3,821,817 1451 July2,1974

Waller 2/165 Primary ExaminerGeo. V. Larkin [57] ABSTRACT A constructionand pattern for fingered gloves, particularly dress gloves, especiallydesigned for use with knit and stretch fabrics. The trank includes backand palm portions folded at the little finger edge of the hand for wraparound comfort. The back portion of the trank includes the back portionsof the little, ring and middlefinger stalls and the back and palmportions of the forefinger stall to provide a wrap-around effect at theforefinger edge fold. The thumb stall is part of the back portion of thetrank when knit or stretch material is used, in which case special seamsand stitching are utilized to impart a fashionable set-in appearance, orthe thumb stall is cut separately for non-knit materials. A sidefingerfourchette is installed by continuous seams from the forefinger tip tothe lit-' tle finger tip and is cut to taper toward the tips of eachfinger stall before final stitching.

' 6 Claims, 7 Drawing Figures Canada 2/165 PATENTEUJUL 21974 3.821.817

SHEEI 1 0F 3 W I A zzx: l 1% x. F 54 i PATENTEDJUL 219-14 SHEET 2 BF 3,4 rrawiy PATENTEUJUL 2 1914 r 3.821. 8 1 7 sum 3 0F 3 GLOVECONSTRUCTION BACKGROUND AND SUMMARY OF THE INVENTION The primary purposeof this invention is to meet a need for a simple, yet stylish glovehaving a construction based on a pattern especially adapted for use ofknit or stretch fabrics. In particular the pattern is intended for useby home seamstresses employing these popular fabrics. However, in theattempt to meet this specific need, an invention has resulted which isapplicable, on a wider basis, both for use of other materials includingwoven fabrics, and for professional or industrial glove making.

It should be noted that the word pattern as used herein refers to theshape or outline, and associated markings, on a diagram by which fabricwould be cut to pattern for construction of the glove. The word designis used to indicate the overall glove concept. A commercial printedpattern would include a printed layout of the shapes to which the fabricwould be cut in accordance with the overall glove concept or design, andwould also include size charts, construction diagrams and instructions.Stitching" is defined to include equivalent means for securing materialstogether, including but not limited to gluing and the use of otherbonding means, chemical agents or the like.

To impart a clear understanding of the invention and the terminologyused to described it, some examples of prior patterns and designs willbe discussed. A dress glove pattern includes a trank, or main handpiece,

which typically includes the back and palm of the glove joined togetheralong a fold line on the forefinger edge of the hand. The back and palmare cut separately if contrasting materials are to be used. The gouch oropening in the trank where the thumb is attached is always placed on thepalm side of the trank. The thumb stall is typically cut separately andstitched to the trank, or in some work gloves a portion thereof is cutpartially as a part of the trank, with other pieces added to completethe construction.

The palm and back sides of the fingers typically form parts of the trankin dress glove patterns, while in some work gloves theyare cutseparately and stitched to the trank in constructing the glove,Sidefinger pieces, called fourchettes, are cut separately and stitchedto the sides of the fingers in most patterns, and in some cases sidepieces are used in making the thumb as well. A separate piece sewn intothe crotch of the thumb is referred to as a quirk.

The construction and installation of the thumb has been the mostdifficult and troublesome aspect of glove design. The most common thumbconstruction is the so-called Bolton thumb, which is a separate piece,oval at the base or lower side of the thumb next to the wrist andincludes extensions to the tip forming the palm and back sides of thethumb, with a slash cut diagonally into the thumb pattern on the palmside. The material below the slash line is typically extended somewhatbeyond that above the slash line.

Many variations on the Bolton thumb design and the corresponding gouchhave been developed. When properly fitted the Bolton thumb has been thesnuggest fitting thumb design still allowing for maximum freedom ofmovement. However, its disadvantage is its intricacy and the complexityof its installation.

Simpler thumb designs have utilized an oval gouch and a symmetricalthumb piece, typical in less expensive gloves. Different variations ofthis design have been characterized by symmetry with respect to thethumb fold line, and in some cases the pattern has included a quirk inthe crotch between the thumb and forefinger.

While the oval gouch and symmetrical thumb pattern is simpler to makethan the Bolton variations, this design limits the range of thumbmovement and is less comfortable to wear. The seam often tends to bindor chafe the webbed area between the wearer's thumb and forefinger, andvariations intended to improve the freedom of motion have imparted morecomplexity or discomfort, or both.

Still another type of thumb construction is the socalled Ross-Shirethumb in which the palm side of the thumb is cut as a part of the trank,extending vertically downward toward the wrist portion of the trank,then lifted up when constructed to become the inside of the thumb. Aseparate piece is then sewn to this to become the back and sides of thethumb. This pattern was apparently designed for leather gloves. It wouldrequire a great deal of skill on the part of the seamstress to effect aproper fit for a dress glove and as such is found only in museums.

Many different designs of fourchettes, or sidefinger pieces, have beenemployed in glove construction over the years. These have includedseparate fourchette strips which have rectangular, tapered, rounded,pointed or other shapes, meticulously sewn on the sides of theindividual fingers, sometimes with quirks reinforcing the crotchesbetween the fingers. Continuous fourchette strips have been used,extending from the tip of the forefinger to the little finger tip andbeyond, along the little finger edge of the hand to the wrist. In

one inexpensive and rather bulky driving glove design the fourchettestrip extends from the wrist at the forefinger fold line, around all thefingers and back to the wrist on the little finger fold line, and a sidestrip is sewn around the thumb as well. Side strips are typicallyconstructed of stretchable material in less expensive gloves where thesame size glove is intended to fit a range of different size hands. Insomedesigns, particularly work gloves, no separate fourchettes areprovided, but side finger pieces are cut as a part of the separatefinger pieces. However, such patterns are not generally applicable todress gloves, for which this invention is primarily intended.

The number of pattern pieces is a critically important aspect of glovedesign, since it determines the amount of stitching and complexity ofconstruction. Classic dress glove patterns utilizing pairs of fourchettestrips typically require eight pattern pieces per glove, namely thetrank, the thumb piece, and six fourchettes. Gloves cut with doublefourchettes require five pattern pieces: the trank, the thumb piece andthree double or pairs of fourchettes.

Some of the less expensive dress glove patterns, with stretchablefourchette strips completely outlining the hand and the thumb aspreviously mentioned, require six pieces: the back piece, the palmpiece, two thumb pieces and two fourchette strips. The smallest numberof pieces in any handwear pattern known to date, other than simple mittsof the potlifter type, has been three pattern pieces in a ski mittendesign and four pieces in 3 the socalled Gunn-cut work glove, when madewithout a welt.

In pursuing the object of simplicity in pattern design and construction,it is a principle goal of this invention to provide a pattern having thesmallest possible number of pattern pieces, and hence the minimum amountof required stitching. Accordingly, while variations of the'inventionmay consist of three or even four pieces, when knit or stretch materialis used the design consists of only two pieces: a single pattern pieceincorporating both the trank and the entire thumb piece as a portionthereof, and a single separate fourchette.

No known fingered glove pattern to date has consisted of so few patternpieces, or has required so few seams. Further, in no previously knownglove pattern is the entire thumb attached to and completelyincorporated with the trank with no additional piece necessary tocomplete the construction besides the fourchette. Nor has any previousdesign so readily enabled the seamstress to fit the glove to unusuallythick hands or fingers deformed by arthritis or the like.

In addition, patterns in accordance with the invention are more readilyadaptable to a great variety of fabrics. Heretofore only firm knitfabrics were used in glove manufacture, whereas all knit fabrics can beused by the home seamstress with the aid of this invention. This bringsa formidable problem in glove sizing, as a four inch piece of one knitfabric may stretch only three-fourths of an inch, while another maystretch double its length. In the latter event, gloves intended for asmall woman may fit a large man. This renders desirable a means forpredetermining the size of the glove before cutting, into the fabric.

' Therefore, the inventor has devised a stretch factor test of theactual fabric in question. The stretch factor determines three things:(1-) the size of pattern the seamstress will choose, (2) the width shecuts the sidefinger strip originally, and (3) the amount she will trimfrom the strip during construction. In addition to the usual glovemeasurement taken of the circumference of the hand, a new measurementthe thickness of the middle finger will be taken. Size charts given oncontemplated commercial printed patterns will coordinate handmeasurements with stretch factors of different fabrics to achieve theproper fit.

- Briefly, the invention resides in a construction for a fingered glovewherein the trank consists of a palm portion, preferably including thepalm portions of the middle, ring and little finger stalls; a backportion, preferably including the back portions for little ring andmiddle finger stalls, together with the palm portion joined to thebackportion of the forefinger stall along a forefinger fold line; asingle thumb stall having back and palm I portions joined along a thumbfold line which forms an acute angle of at least 40 with the forefingerfold line; and sidefinger closure means.

When stitched, the trank with attached thumb stall is folded on threefold lines bringing the edges together in such a manner that two seamscomplete all construction except for attaching the fourchette. The firstcloses the thumb and attaches the thumb palm extension to the forefingerbase. The second extends from the foreof topstitching are important togive the illusion of a set-in thumb in the preferred designs.

The preferred embodiment of the invention contemplates the use of knitor stretch materials, which permit greater simplicity and enhance thecomfort and appearance of the glove. In this embodiment the palm andback portions of the trank are cut as one piece. However, whencontrasting colors on the back and palm are desired, separate back andpalm pieces may be stitched together along the little finger edge of thehand before further stitching is done, or a contrasting piece may beappliqued over the back or palm (or other portion) of the glove. In anyevent, the palm and back portions comprise the main trank which isfolded around the hand along the little finger edge.

In addition, when knit or stretch materials are used,

the entire thumb stall also is cut as part of the trank, joined to theback portion of the trank along a joinder line which is substantially.aligned with the forefinger fold line (that is, parallel to thefingers). The trank is cut with the thumb fold line aligned with thetrue bias of the material. A tuck is included along the aforementionedthumb joinder line to impart a set-in appearance. The glove is completedby the single separate fourchette.

'When woven fabric or other non-stretch material is used, the thumbstall is cut separate from the back portion of the trank. The backportion of. the thumb stall is then stitched to the back portion of thetrank, along a joinder line substantially aligned with the forefingeredge fold. In this embodiment both the palm and back portions of thetrank (preferably one piece) and the thumb stall are cut from the fabricin such away as to have their respective fold lines lie in the directionof true bias of the material. The desired set-in thumb appearance occursnaturally in this embodiment by virtue of the aforementioned stitchingalong the joinder line. The fourchette, also cut on true bias, isinstalled as before. This embodiment thus includes a minimum of twopattern pieces plus the fourchette.

The palm portion of the thumb stall according to the invention includesan extension, the end of which, when the thumb stall is folded, isstitched to the base of the forefinger palm portion along a cross seam,which is a continuation of the thumb closure seam. The side of theextension is stitched to the palm portion of the trank along a thumbpalm-seam extending from the cross seam to the wrist. The thumb palmseam is a por tion of a continuous curved palm seam which extends fromthe forefinger crotch to the cuff edge of the glove.

This continuous curved palm seam, together with the thumb closure seam(including the cross seam) andthe two fourchette seams, are the onlyseams necessary to complete the basic construction of the glove.

The invention also resides in a feature of the thumb stall whereby itsback and palm portions are preferably curved nonsymmetrically toward thetip thereof in order to provide more material on the palm side of thethumb than on the back side. This avoids positioning the thumb closureseam across the grasping surface of the thumb and imparts greatercomfort, as well as enhanced appearance. This feature is importantindependent of theone-piece trank and thumb stall feature of theinvention. 1

The sidefinger or fourchette strip means preferably comprises a singlestrip stitched first to the palm sides of the fingers along a continuousseam from the tip of the forefinger to the tip of the little finger. Thestrip is cut to taper toward the tips of each finger stall before it isstitched to the backsides of the fingers. The crotches between fingersare cut deeper on the back side than on the palm side so that thecontinuous strip when stitched is angled in the crotches to betteraccommodate the webbed portions of the hand between the fingers. Shapingof the strip at this point in the construction allows its widest partsto fall precisely at bottoms of slashes between fingers.

Although broadly applicable to commercial glove making, the pattern andconstruction disclosed herein were designed expressly for the homeseamstress to use with knit or stretch fabric. It is estimated that wellover half of all ready-to-wear garments are now of knit fabric, and thepercentage is expected to increase rapidly. In addition, home sewingusing these new materials is increasing in popularity at the same time,causing proliferation of classes for home seamstresses who wish toperfect their techniques using the new materials.

While modern sewing machines with many sophisticated improvements andfeatures are available, the invention is designed for glove making witha simple straight stitch type machine, the only attachment needed beinga roller foot with a zig zag slot, available inexpensively for mostmachines.

Additionally, the invention seeks to provide a fashionable glove patternwhich is simple enough for construction by amateur seamstresses, yet hasthe appearance of a high fashion glove.

While the actual steps of construction in accordance with a pattern andinstructions which are available are not set out in detail herein,persons skilled in the art will understand and can practice theinvention from the description included, taken in conjunction with theaccompanying drawings.

BRIEF DESCRIPTION OF THE DRAWINGS FIG. 1 is a plan view of a two pieceglove design according to one embodiment of the invention, showing thesidefinger strip and the inside of the one piece trank for a right-handglove.

FIG. 2 is a plan view of the inside of a right-hand glove, in accordancewith a second embodiment of the invention.

FIG. 3 is a view of the thumb stall of a glove finished in accordancewith the invention illustrating certain features of the thumbconstruction.

FIG. 4 is a view of the back of a finished right-hand glove inaccordance with the invention.

FIG. 5 is a view of the palm side of a finished lefthand glove inaccordance with the invention.

FIG. 6 is a plan view of a one-piece trank for a lefthand gloveaccording to the invention, with a contrasting back piece superimposedover a portion of the DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF PREFERRED EMBODIMENTSReferring to FIG. 1, the basic one piece trank for a right-hand glove isshown, with the inside (or wrong side) facing up. The trank 10 consistsof a palm portion 12 with a curved edge 54 and a base edge 61, which.

palm portion includes the palm portions of the middle,

ring and little finger stalls, a back portion 14, which includes theback portions for little, ring and middle finger stalls, together withthe back 24 and 26 portion of the forefinger stall integral along aforefinger fold line 20, and a thumb stall 16 connected to the backportion 14 of the trank along a joinder line 18 which is aligned withthe forefinger fold line 20 between the forefinger stall back and palmportions. The trank has three basic folds: the main fold line 22 alongthe little finger edge of the hand, the forefinger fold line 20, and thethumb fold line 23. While prior dress glove patterns have included aseam along the outside edge or little finger edge of the hand, thisdesign omits that seam to give a wrap around effect at that edge of thehand from the wrist to the tip of the little finger, imparting smootherfit, greater comfort and more fashionable appearance. The outside edgeof the hand is often rested upon a surface, and the wearer wouldnormally be aware of a seam along that edge.

The wrap around forefinger construction is important to retain theappearance of the classic dress glove and allows a basic construction ofonly four seams. The back portion 24 and palm 26 portion of theforefinger stall are slightly wider than the back and palm portions ofthe middle and ring finger stalls to compensate for the absence of aside finger strip on the outside edge, as discussed later. The same istrue of the back and palm portions of the little finger stall. The palmportion 26 of the forefinger stall incorporates a rectangular forefingerbase section 28 which terminates in a seam allowance 30 on'the side,extending from the base line 32 up the finger to the point wherethe'forefinger and middle finger join. The seam allowance 30 on the sideof the forefinger base section is joined to the thumb portion of thetrank in a seam extending from the forefinger crotch 124, FIG. 5, to thecross seam 44-the forefinger crotch seam 40, FIG. 5.v

The pattern of this invention includes no gouch, which is the palmopening into which the separate thumb stall is fitted in prior dressglove patterns, where the major fold of the trank extends the fulllength of the hand along the forefinger edge of the glove. Instead, thetrank is folded around the hand from the outside or little finger edge,the forefinger pieces arewrapped around the forefinger edge of the hand,and the thumb piece is wrapped around the thumb to close the trank. Thiscan be seen by comparing FIGS. 1 and 5.

The thumb stall 16 consists of a palm portion 36 and a backportion 34,integral along a thumb fold line which intersects the forefinger foldline by at least a 40 angle, the palm portion of the thumb stallincluding a thumb palm extension 38 which, when the thumb stall isfolded, extends part way across the palm of the hand as shown in FIG. 5.The end 42 of the thumb palm extension 38 meets and is stitched to thebase edge 32 of the forefinger base section 28 forming a cross seam 44.The parabolic curve edge 46 between the thumb palm extension end 42 andthe tip 35 of the palm portion 36 of the thumb stall meets a similarparabolic curved edge 48 between the tip of the back portion of thethumb stall and the back of the trank to form the crotch of the thumb51, FIG. 4 by stitching along the thumb closure seam 50, which appearsin FIGS. 3 and 4. The curved edges towards the tips of the palm and backportions of the thumb stall are cut nonsymmetrically so that the thumbclosure seam S0 is offset toward the back of the hand and, rather thanextending across it outlines the grasping portion of the wearers thumb.This nonsymmetrical cut and stitching avoids the discomfort of amisplaced seam which occurs in prior dress glove patterns.

The lower curved edge 52 of palm portion 36 of the thumb stall curvesfrom the point where it meets the back portion 14 of the trank towardthe extension 38.

This curved edge meets the correspondingly curved edge 54 of the palmportion 12 of the trank. These pieces are stitched together along thethumb-palm seam 56, visible in FIG. 5, which extends from the corner ofthe forefinger base section 28-cross seam 44-to a point 58 at the baseof the thumb stall. The comparatively broad concave curve 52 reverses toa narrow concave are at this point where it blends into the wrist seam60 which joins the base edge 61 of the palm portion and the basev edge63 of the back portion of the trank in a wrist seam alignedsubstantially with the forefinger fold line.

Theforefinger crotch seam 40, the thumb-palm seam 56, and the wrist seam60form a continuous curved palm seam 62 from the forefinger crotch tothe cuff edge 59 of the glove. The significance of this seam 62 is itslocation in relation to the hinging of the thumb of the human hand. Thehinging action'of the thumb can beobserved by extending ones fingers andthumb out with the palm facing up. Then, holding the fingers flat andreaching the thumb across the palm, it will be noted'that the palm skinhinges along a wrinkle which curves wellacross the palm of the hand froma point below the base of the forefinger and curves around the base ofthe thumb to the wrist. The palm seam 62 matches the location of thisfold line of the hand more closely and accurately than previously knownpatterns. In other words, the thumb and palm portion of the glovepattern are joined together in a way which is much more appropriate andmore closely related to the movement of the muscles of the hand. Theresult is a closer and more comfortable fit. The thumb-palm seam 56 istop-stitched on the palm side of and parallel to the seam line 56 asshown by the dotted line 57 (See FIG. 5); to strengthen the seam, toenhance the comfort by flattening the seam, and to enhance theappearance of the glove by adding to the illusion of a set-in thumb. Inaddition, the curve of the palm seam is important from the standpoint ofpermitting a simple closure .of the trankaround the hand withoutnecessity for additional pieces or seams. That is, the thumb closureseam S and the forefinger cross seam 44 form one continuous I seam andthe palm seam 62'is another, which together serve to close thewrap-around forefinger, the: wraparound thumb, and the wrap-aroundtrank. When compared to previous designs, these seams replace all sidesseams and the usual thumb-to-gouch seams.

In FIG. 1 the thread or grain direction of the material is indicated atseveral locations on the trank. The direction of true bias, thediagonal, is shown by the arrow A. The pattern is cut from the fabric inthis relationship to the bias direction when'knit or stretch fabrics areused but also so that maximum stretch inherent in the fabric goes aroundthe hand in the direction of arrow B. The thumb fold line 22 extends byat least a 40 angle of the main trank portion of the glove. It isimportant that the thumb fold extend in the same directionas the truebias of the fabric in order to impart the proper give or flexibility ina symmetrical way to the thumb. If the thumb is not cut on the truebias, then the material of the thumb stall will have more give orflexibility in one direction than in the other, causing a noticablediscomfort in the action" of the glove when worn. In addition, a morenatural fit is provided, since the approximate natural angle of thethumb to the forefinger edge of the hand is about 45.

Turning now to the back of the glove as shown in FIG. 4, three straighttucks 64, 66 and 68 are stitched centrally down the back portion 14 atangles to one another converging toward the wrist. These arenonfunctional, decorative tucks which appear in most fashionable gloves,and are not new to this invention. A fourth tuck,'70, however, is uniqueto this invention. This tuck is taken along the joinder line 18 (FIG. 1)between the back portion of the thumb stall and the back portion of thetrank. Its function is to impart the appearance of a set-in thumb stallto match the appearance of classic glove designs. Thethumb stall is thusseparated in appearance from the back of the glove, even thoughstructurally it is the samepieceLThe tuck 70 also includesend portions72 and 74 which meet the forefinger base seam 44 and the wrist seam 60respectively. Together with the cross searn' 44 and the top stitchedthumb-palm seam 56, the tuck 70 and extensions 72 fabric. It is cut fromknit fabric in the direction shown,

that is, straight with the grain with maximum stretch 'around the hand.The finger stalls are completed by stitching the fourchette 76 along theinside edges and around the tips 108 of the finger stalls from thelittle finger fold line 22 to the forefinger fold line 20, or viceversa. This stiching, in most versions, is done with the glove andfinger stalls turned inside out. In accordance with this invention thesidefinger fourchette 76 is cut to taper toward the tip 108 of eachfinger stall from the crotches 106 therebetween to accommodate thenatural taper of the wearers fingers. Procedurally, this is done afterthe fourchette is stiched to the palm sides 112 of the finger stalls.In'prior dress gloves, the backs of the finger stalls were stitchedfirst. Here the reverse is true because in cutting excess fabric fromthe fourchette 76, besides varying the depth from the maximum at thecrotch 106 to the minimum at the fingertips 108 of the finger stalls alonger edge 1 10 is obtained on the back of the fourchette where it isneeded to accommodate the deeper slash between each finger (Compare 116and 114, FIG. 1). p

The stitching on theback side of the finger stalls is terminated in thecrotch at points farther from the finger tips of the finger stalls thanon the palm side, in order to accommodate the web portions between thewearers fingers. The taper is visible to some extent in FIG. 4, and itwill be noted that the termination points of the slashes between thefinger stalls in FIG. I extend farther (116) from the finger tips on theback portion 14 of the trank than 114 on the palm portion 12 individualcharacteristics of finger shape or individual deformities among whichenlarged arthritic knuckles are common. Because excess material istrimmed from the sidefinger strip during construction, greater accuracyis achieved.

As noted earlier, the middle finger and ring finger stalls have sidestrips on each side, while the little finger and forefinger stalls donot. Hence the little and forefinger back and palm portions stalls areslightly wider than the middle and ring finger back and palm portions ofthe stalls, as is visible upon a close examination of FIG. 1. Otherwise,the wrap-around effect that the forefinger and little finger edges ofthe hand wouldresult in fingers which are too small and hence would notfit, or would necessitate making the sidefinger strip for those twofingers wider, resulting in a triangular cross section in each case.

A second embodiment of the invention is adapted for use with wovenfabrics and other non-stretch materials. In this embodiment, shown inFIG. 2, the thumb stall 78 is cut-separately from the main trank piece80, and both pieces are cut in the relationship shown, with the maintrank fold line 22 and the thumb fold line 23 extending'in the directionof the true bias of the material. Note that the grain or threads of thematerial are shown extending diagonally of both pieces, the true bias,then, being in the direction of either arrow A or B, and the maximumstretch being in the direction of arrow B. In this embodiment the thumbstall 78 includes a seam allowance 82, forming a substantially straightjoinder line, plus added extensions'82a and 82b thereof. The

entire seam allowance is joined to the main trank piece by stitchingalong the lines connecting points 90, 92, 94 and 96. The substantiallyvstraight thumb joinder line 84 aligned with the forefinger fold line 20corresponds to the joinder line 18 in the embodiment first described,and seam extensions 90 to 92 and 94 to 96 correspond to the tuckextensions 72 and 74 in FIG. 1, and when these substantially straightjoinder lines of the thumb stall and trank are joined they form a seamin the finished glove equivalent to the tuck 70 shown in FIG. 4.

The construction of the glove in accordance with this embodiment isidentical in other respects to the em bodiment first described,including parabolic curved edges 46 and 48 to form the thumb crotch ofthe glove when-assembled, and joinder of the remaining portions of thethumb stall 78 to the "forefinger'base and the I palm portion of thetrank, as well as the sidefinger strip.

Woven fabrics and other non-stretch materials are characterized by aless flexible and hence less comfortable fit than the knit or stretchfabrics, but the appearance of the glove is virtually the same in thisembodiment as in that first described. The only difierence is the thumbjoinder seam on the back of the hand, which is distinguishable from thetuck 70 in the first embodiment only on close examination.

Construction of both embodiments is completed by a hem line 86 aroundthe wrist and installation of a piece of elastic along the line 88across the inside of the palm portion 12 above the wrist and parallel tothe hem line 86.

Either embodiment maybe modified in various ways within the scope of theprinciples disclosed. The palm and back portions of the trank, forexample, may be cut from contrasting materials, necessitating a seamalong the fold line 22. Thisseam (not shown) would be sewn first to formthe basic trank and construction would proceed as described. However,this additional construction seam can be avoided and still obtain thedesired decorative result by appliqueing a contrasting back piece'98over the back portion 14a of the main trank piece, for example, as shownin FIG. 6. The added piece shown also includes a thumb back portion 99over the thumb back portion 16a of the underlying pattern piece. Asimilar addition can be made on the palm side with leather, for example,for driving gloves or the like.

Besides the continuous seams for installation of the sidefinger stripfrom the tip of the. little finger to the tip of the forefinger, thebasic pattern according to the invention requires only two basic seams.These are the continuous seam consisting of the thumb closure seam .50and the forefinger cross seam 44, and the curved palm seam 62 extendingfrom the forefinger crotch to the cuff edge of the glove.

The fingered glove pattern and construction in accordance with inventionis thus characterized by simplicity and ease of construction for theseamstress, and by comfort and fashionable appearance for the wearer. Byuse of the popular knit and stretch fabrics and the pattern describedherein amateur seamstresses can easily make thrifty use of smallremnants to make gloves matching other garments or accessories in colorand design to fashionably complete the wearers wardrobe.

What is claimed is:

1. A construction for a fingered glove comprising:

1. a trank having a palm portion with a curved edge and a base edge,-said palm portion including the palm portions for the middle, ring andlittle finger stalls, and a back portion integral with the palm portionalong a little finger fold line, said back portion of the trankincluding back portions for the little, ring and middle finger stallsand both back and palm portions for the forefinger stall integral alonga forefinger fold line, plus a'forefinger base section having a seamallowance on the side and a base edge, with a base edge also on the backportion of the trank, g

2. a thumb stall which includes a thumb back portion integral with-theback'portion of the trank along a joinder line substantially alignedwiththe forefinger fold line, 'a thumb palmvportion integral with the thumbback portion along a thumb fold line which intersects the forefingerfold line by at least a 40 angle, plus a thumb palm extension, with aparabolic curved edge between the thumbpalm extension end and the tip ofthe palm portion-of the thumb stall and asimilar parabolic curved edgebetween the tip of the back portion of the thumb stall and the backportion of the trank, and also a lower curved edge on the palm portionof the thumb stall,

3. side finger closure means,

4. said glove when assembled including a continuous seam joining the endof the thumb palm extension to the base edge of the forefinger basesection, joining the parabolic curved edge between the thumb palmextension end and the tip of thepalm portion of the thumb stall to thesimilar parabolic curved edge between the tip of the back portion of thethumb stall and the back portion of the trank, to form the crotch of thethumb of the assembled glove, and continuing to close the remainder ofthe thumb stall in the thumb closure seam; as well as a secondcontinuous seam from the forefinger crotch to the cuff edge of theglove. I

2. The glove construction of claim 1 wherein the continuous forefingercrotch to cuff edge seam is formed by joining the seam allowance on theside of the forefinger base section to the palm portion of the trank,the

get crotch to the cross seam, joining the lower curved edge of the palmportion of the thumb stall to the correspondingly curved edge on thepalm portion of the trank, the thumb-palm seam, which extends from thecross seam to a point at the base of the thumb stall, joining the baseedge of the back portion of the trank to the base edge of the palmportion of the trank in a wrist seam aligned substantially with theforefinger fold line.

3. The glove construction of claim 1 wherein the thumb stall is integralwith the trank, a tuck is taken along the joinder line between the backportion of the thumb stall and the back portion of the trank, with thefunction of imparting to the thumb stall of the finished glove .a set-inappearance suitable for a dress glove.

4. The glove construction of claim 1 wherein the palm and back portionsof the thumb stall being integral on the thumb fold line, are curvednon-symmetricallytowards the tips thereof, so that the thumb palmforefinger crotch seam, which extends from the forefinportion is largerthan the thumb back portion of the thumb stall and the thumb closureseam outlines the grasping area of the'wearers thumb.

S. The glove construction of claim 1 wherein the side finger closuremeans comprises a fourchett'e of desired maximum width stitched to thepalm portions of the four finger stalls, excess fabric being trimmedfrom the fourchette strip from a maximum width at the crotch betweeneach finger to the minimum width desired at the fingertips of the fingerstalls, the longer edge obtained on the back side of the strip extendingto fit the deeper crotch at the back of the fingerstalls.

6. A construction for a fingered glove comprising; 1. a trank having apalm portion with a'curved edge and a base edge, said palm'portionincluding the palm portions for the middle, ring and little fingerstalls, and a back portion integral withthe palm portion along a littlefinger fold line, said back por- '2. a thumb stall separate from thetrank, with a seam allowancevon the back portion of the thumb stallforming a substantially straight joinder line to be stitched to thethumb joinder lineon the back portion of the trank, with the palmportion integral with'the back portion of the thumb stall along a thumbfold line which intersects the forefinger fold line when the glove isassembled by at least a 40 angle, plus a thumb palm extension andparabolic curved edges to form the thumb crotch of the glove whenassembled,

3. side closure means,

4. said glove when assembled including a substantially straight thumbjoinder seam, a continuous seam joining the end of the thumb palmextension to the base edge of the forefinger base section, joining theparabolic curved edge between the thumb palm extension end and the tipof the palm portion of the thumb stall to the similar parabolic curvededge between the tip of the back portion of the thumb stall and the backportion of the trank, to form the crotch of the thumb of the assembledglove, and continuing to close the remainder of the thumb stall inthethumb closure seam; as well as I ,a second continuous seam from theforefinger crotch to the cuff edge of the glove.

1. A construction for a fingered glove comprising:
 1. a trank having apalm portion with a curved edge and a base edge, said palm portionincluding the palm portions for the middle, ring and little fingerstalls, and a back portion integral with the palm portion along a littlefinger fold line, said back portion of the trank including back portionsfor the little, ring and middle finger stalls and both back and palmportions for the forefinger stall integral along a forefinger fold line,plus a forefinger base section having a seam allowance on the side and abase edge, with a base edge also on the back portion of the trank,
 2. athumb stall which includes a thumb back portion integral with the backportion of the trank along a joinder line substantially aligned with theforefinger fold line, a thumb palm portion integral with the thumb backportion along a thumb fold line which intersects the forefinger foldline by at least a 40* angle, plus a thumb palm extension, with aparabolic curved edge between the thumb palm extension end and the tipof the palm portion of the thumb stall and a similar parabolic curvededge between the tip of the back portion of the thumb stall and the backportion of the trank, and also a lower curved edge on the palm portionof the thumb stall,
 3. side finger closure means,
 4. said glove whenassembled including a continuous seam joining the end of the thumb palmextension to the base edge of the forefinger base section, joining theparabolic curved edge between the thumb palm extension end and the tipof the palm portion of the thumb stall to the similar parabolic curvededge between the tip of the back portion of the thumb stall and the backportion of the trank, to form the crotch of the thumb of the assembledglove, and continuing to close the remainder of the thumb stall in thethumb closure seam; as well as a second continuous seam from theforefinger crotch to the cuff edge of the glove.
 2. a thumb stall whichincludes a thumb back portion integral with the back portion of thetrank along a joinder line substantially aligned with the forefingerfold line, a thumb palm portion integral with the thumb back portionalong a thumb fold line which intersects the forefinger fold line by atleast a 40* angle, plus a thumb palm extension, with a parabolic curvededge between the thumb palm extension end and the tip of the palmportion of the thumb stall and a similar parabolic curved edge betweenthe tip of the back portion of the thumb stall and the back portion ofthe trank, and also a lower curved edge on the palm portion of the thumbstall,
 2. a thumb stall separate from the trank, with a seam allowanceon the back portion of the thumb stall forming a substantially straightjoinder line to be stitched to the thumb joinder line on the backportion of the trank, with the palm portion integral with the backportion of the thumb stall along a thumb fold line which intersects theforefinger fold line when the glove is assembled by at least a 40*angle, plus a thumb palm extension and parabolic curved edges to formthe thumb crotch of the glove when assembled,
 2. The glove constructionof claim 1 wherein the continuous forefinger crotch to cuff edge seam isformed by joining the seam allowance on the side of the forefinger basesection to the palm portion of the trank, the forefinger crotch seam,which extends from the forefinger crotch to the cross seam, joining thelower curved edge of the palm portion of the thumb stall to thecorrespondingly curved edge on the palm portion of the trank, thethumb-palm seam, which extends from the cross seam to a point at thebase of the thumb stall, joining the base edge of the back portion ofthe trank to the base edge of the palm portion of the trank in a wristseam aligned substantially with the forefinger fold line.
 3. sideclosure means,
 3. The glove construction of claim 1 wherein the thumbstall is integral with the trank, a tuck is taken along the joinder linebetween the back portion of the thumb stall and the back portion of thetrank, with the function of imparting to the thumb stall of the finishedglove a set-in appearance suitable for a dress glove.
 3. side fingerclosure means,
 4. said glove when assembled including a substantiallystraight thumb joinder seam, a continuous seam joining the end of thethumb palm extension to the base edge of the forefinger base section,joining the parabolic curved edge between the thumb palm extenSion endand the tip of the palm portion of the thumb stall to the similarparabolic curved edge between the tip of the back portion of the thumbstall and the back portion of the trank, to form the crotch of the thumbof the assembled glove, and continuing to close the remainder of thethumb stall in the thumb closure seam; as well as a second continuousseam from the forefinger crotch to the cuff edge of the glove.
 4. saidglove when assembled including a continuous seam joining the end of thethumb palm extension to the base edge of the forefinger base section,joining the parabolic curved edge between the thumb palm extension endand the tip of the palm portion of the thumb stall to the similarparabolic curved edge between the tip of the back portion of the thumbstall and the back portion of the trank, to form the crotch of the thumbof the assembled glove, and continuing to close the remainder of thethumb stall in the thumb closure seam; as well as a second continuousseam from the forefinger crotch to the cuff edge of the glove.
 4. Theglove construction of claim 1 wherein the palm and back portions of thethumb stall being integral on the thumb fold line, are curvednon-symmetrically towards the tips thereof, so that the thumb palmportion is larger than the thumb back portion of the thumb stall and thethumb closure seam outlines the grasping area of the wearer''s thumb. 5.The glove construction of claim 1 wherein the side finger closure meanscomprises a fourchette of desired maximum width stitched to the palmportions of the four finger stalls, excess fabric being trimmed from thefourchette strip from a maximum width at the crotch between each fingerto the minimum width desired at the fingertips of the finger stalls, thelonger edge obtained on the back side of the strip extending to fit thedeeper crotch at the back of the fingerstalls.
 6. A construction for afingered glove comprising;